If you’re a climber craving quartz-monzonite granite, shaded walls, and a friendly local vibe, Ferguson Canyon and especially The Watchtowers should top your bucket list. Just a 15–20 minute hike from the Timberline trailhead, you’ll find a world-class trad and sport climbing crag known for its solid anchors, steep cracks, and unforgettable pitches.
Conquering the Classics
Recently, we tackled three standout routes at The Watchtower Main: Extreme Unction, The Confessional, and Inner Light, and each offers a unique thrill.
- Extreme Unction (5.10a)
- A stiff, sustained 5.10 trad climb packed with technical seam climbing. It’s got just enough friction to keep you on your toes, and the anchor rappel was a satisfying way to end the line.
- The Confessional (5.6)
- This moderate, steadily angled trad route is ideal for developing movement, footwork, and balance. With great seams and a mellow grade, it’s approachable, yet still satisfying.
- Inner Light (5.7)
- Flowing and fun, this climb seamlessly blends crack and face climbing into a single, enjoyable outing. At 5.7, it has just enough spice to engage, but stays accessible, and the views don’t disappoint.
Why Ferguson Canyon Rocks
- Shaded & Streamside: The Watchtower walls sit right beside a stream, offering cooling shade and ambient creek sounds all day.
- Varied & Accessible: With \~167 routes across trad, sport, and mixed styles, there’s something for every skill level, and solid anchors.
- Local Vibe: This canyon has a friendly, welcoming feel. Dogs are welcome, crowds are manageable, and the rock feels like an old climbing friend.
Beyond the Big Three: So Many Routes Left to Go!
Right now at The Watchtower Main, there are over 30 premier climbs, and the Watchtower Tiers alone add another 11, including accessible sport lines like Imperial and Uncensored Society. Across the canyon, you’ll also find Cathedral, Goldenfingers, and even ice/mixed routes in spring.
If you’re into cragging, projecting harder grades, or just wanting a mellow day out, Ferguson Canyon has you covered.
Getting There & Tips
- Trailhead: Park on Timberline Drive (off Prospector Drive) and follow the signed trail into the canyon. Your first landmark: the iconic white water tower, 15–20 minutes in.
- Rock Type: Solid, high-quality quartz monzonite similar to granite with excellent friction, though popular lines may feel slick.
- Shade & Stream: Enjoy cooler temperatures and creekside ambiance even in summer.
- Guidebook: The Rakkup Ferguson Canyon app and A Granite Guide cover 160+ routes with topography and GPS, making them great for planning.
If you’re heading into Ferguson for the first time, remember to bring a helmet; sections still have loose rock, especially near belay areas. Approach shoes or grippy trail runners are helpful for the short but rocky hike in. Don’t forget sunscreen and a small daypack with plenty of water. The canyon stays cool thanks to the shade, but it’s easy to underestimate how much hydration you’ll need.
Bonus tip: hit the trail early in the morning to enjoy cooler temps and beat the crowds, especially on weekends. And if you’re making a full day of it, pack a lunch and take a creekside break, you’ll be glad you did.
Recommended Climbs in Ferguson Canyon
Ferguson Canyon has a wide range of great routes. Here are some top recommendations to check out beyond Extreme Unction, The Confessional, and Inner Light:
Beginner-Friendly Routes (5.6–5.8):
- Ragamuffin (5.6) – A great intro trad line at The Watchtower with positive holds and easy gear placements.
- Flake Fest (5.8) – A fun route with interesting movement and a secure feel. Ideal for new leaders getting confident on granite.
- Touchy Subject (5.7) – A straightforward climb with a mix of jugs and crack features, perfect for building skills.
Intermediate Classics (5.9–5.10b)
- Uncensored Society (5.10a) – Located on the Watchtower Tiers, this bolted face climb offers sustained movement on clean rock.
- Slippery Slope (5.9) – True to its name, with a slabby section that challenges footwork and balance.
- The Bishop (5.10b) – A steeper, bolder line with great gear and flowy crack sequences. Super satisfying send.
Advanced Climbs (5.10c and up):
- Imperial (5.11a) – A powerful and aesthetic sport line at the Watchtower Tiers. Expect a pump!
- Out of the Darkness (5.11c) – For those looking for a test piece with small holds and precise movement.
- Hell Comes to Frogtown (5.12a) – Steep, technical, and for the bold, this route will challenge your technique and endurance.
Ferguson Canyon is one of those rare gems: it offers easy access, excellent rock, and enough route variety to keep you revisiting season after season. Climbing Extreme Unction, The Confessional, and Inner Light were a blast. Each challenge felt unique, and each send left us wanting more.
No matter your level, there’s always another line to discover around the next corner. The rock quality and route diversity in Ferguson make it one of the best backyard crags on the Wasatch Front.
